Yosemite
(October 2003)

Nutcracker
Nutcracker | Yosemite Point
The first full day Scott and I were in Yosemite, it was a chilly morning but had good signs of warming up. We talked about routes in the sun and decided to do nutcracker. I had never climbed it yet and new it was considered a classic. We invited along Alice, who was staying in the same site at camp 4. She had pulled in the night before and didn't have a climbing partner.
Leading the Undercling
on the first Pitch (5.8)
Rounding the Corner
Alice working the crux
There are may different first pitches to nutcracker. I decided to lead the 5.8 undercling crack. It looked like the most fun. There was a couple of fixed pieces of gear that made it even eisier. I was leading on half ropes, so I was able to belay both followers at the same time with a reverso in auto-locking mode. Alice lead the 2nd pitch which was mostly a 4th class ramp that led to a nice resting ledge while waiting for another party in front of us.
Scott finishing the 3nd Pitch
Scott and Alice coming
up the 4th pitch
Having fun on the rocks
Scott lead the 3rd pitch leading up some cracks and flakes. I led the 4th pitch which had a fricton move followed by a fun crack. There have been so many climbers on this route that the rock is a little polished at places. Scott finished off the climb by leading past a steep mantle move near the top. The descent is a easy scrmble back to the start of the climb.
View over to Royal Arches
and part the tip of Half dome
Final light on El Cap.

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