Washington Column
Location: Yosemite NP, California    

Elevation: ???

Route: South Face
Grade: V
Class: 5.8 C1
Topo Map
 
Date: May 29-30, 2002
Number in Party: Chris Woytko, Robert Garrison
 
South Face of Washington
Other Notes:
Column
After taking a 2 day aid course in the valley and borrowing a haul bag, some friends talked us into trying our first aid route. We said what the hell. You gotta learn somehow. We didn't plan on doing a wall while we were in the valley, ortherwise we would have brought differnt gear. Like a smaller sleeping bag or a foam pad instead of a therma rest. We somehow had just enough room in the haulbag for our gear. After buying some needed gear and borrowing a pulley we were off. We slept at the base the first night. Robert lead the first pitch and fixed the rope. It was low angle so while jummaring, I helped bring the haul bag up. I lead the 2nd pitch which was a 10a crack that ate up #2 camalots. Robert lead the 3rd pitch which had a little chimney and ended on low angle slabs. Bringing up the haul bag was not the easiest thing.
Michelle Leading the 2nd
pitch, 5.11c or C1
Top of the 2nd Pitch
10a or C1 Crack
Robert cleaning the
2nd pitch while I bring
up the haul bag
At the top of the 3rd pitch was a nice bivy ledge where we planned on staying the night. There was pleny or room for us and our friends ahead of us. We still planned on leading another pitch and a half that day. We could anchor our ropes in and lower down to the ledge to sleep. In the morning, ascend our ropes and continue on. The 4th pitch is concidered the crux, The Kor roof. The roof wasn't that hard. There were bolts on the roof that made it easy. It was just very intimidating since it was my first roof. To make it easier on Robert, I back cleaned, which means I pulled the biners off the bolts once I was on the next bolt. This made it easy for the 2nd since they didn't have to lower out after each bolt, but it made it more dangerous for me if something went wrong. I would end up taking a longer fall.
Robert Leading the 3rd
Pitch 5.8 or C1
Michelle doing the first lower
out on the Kor roof
Michelle doing the 2nd
lower out
Working up to the Roof
Still Working up
Working out onto
the roof
After getting over the roof I followed a nice crack for 30 feet to the next set of anchors. I back cleaned this crack as well. In the end I only had 4 pieces of gear left in. Robert start to clean the pitch. Once he got into the roof the ropes got twisted. After a while playing with the ropes it was easier for him to lower and for me to clean it. It took a while to get everything straighted out. After the rope snafu Jamie, Michelle's partner, and I hooked up to do the next pitch. Jamie zipped through the next pitch in a couple of minutes. I followed to the anchors where we anchored the ropes and lowered down to the ledge for the night.
Robert belaying if
front of half dome
Looking up at pitch 6
 
Our bivy ledge
We started out jugging the lines the next day but didn't feel like we had it in us. We decided to head down. I set the ropes up for a rap and I lowered back down to the bivy ledge. We did 3 more rap's to get to the ground. It was a great first trip for a big wall even though we turned around. I will be back to finish the route.
Sunset on half dome from
our bivy ledge
 

Shadow

self portrait
Hiking out with the
haul bag
Washington Column
 

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