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Washington Column
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| Location: Yosemite NP, California |
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Elevation: ???
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| Route: South Face |
| Grade: V |
| Class: 5.8 C1 |
| Topo
Map |
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| Date: May 29-30, 2002 |
| Number in Party: Chris Woytko,
Robert Garrison |
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South Face of Washington
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| Other Notes: |
Column
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| After taking a 2 day aid course in the valley and borrowing
a haul bag, some friends talked us into trying our first aid route. We said
what the hell. You gotta learn somehow. We didn't plan on doing a wall while
we were in the valley, ortherwise we would have brought differnt gear. Like
a smaller sleeping bag or a foam pad instead of a therma rest. We somehow
had just enough room in the haulbag for our gear. After buying some needed
gear and borrowing a pulley we were off. We slept at the base the first
night. Robert lead the first pitch and fixed the rope. It was low angle
so while jummaring, I helped bring the haul bag up. I lead the 2nd pitch
which was a 10a crack that ate up #2 camalots. Robert lead the 3rd pitch
which had a little chimney and ended on low angle slabs. Bringing up the
haul bag was not the easiest thing. |
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Michelle Leading the 2nd
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pitch, 5.11c or C1
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Top of the 2nd Pitch
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10a or C1 Crack
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Robert cleaning the
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2nd pitch while I bring
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up the haul bag
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At the top of the 3rd pitch was a nice bivy ledge where
we planned on staying the night. There was pleny or room for us and our
friends ahead of us. We still planned on leading another pitch and a half
that day. We could anchor our ropes in and lower down to the ledge to
sleep. In the morning, ascend our ropes and continue on. The 4th pitch
is concidered the crux, The Kor roof. The roof wasn't that hard. There
were bolts on the roof that made it easy. It was just very intimidating
since it was my first roof. To make it easier on Robert, I back cleaned,
which means I pulled the biners off the bolts once I was on the next bolt.
This made it easy for the 2nd since they didn't have to lower out after
each bolt, but it made it more dangerous for me if something went wrong.
I would end up taking a longer fall.
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Robert Leading the 3rd
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Pitch 5.8 or C1
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Michelle doing the first lower
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out on the Kor roof
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Michelle doing the 2nd
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lower out
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Working out onto
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the roof
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After getting over the roof I followed a nice crack for
30 feet to the next set of anchors. I back cleaned this crack as well.
In the end I only had 4 pieces of gear left in. Robert start to clean
the pitch. Once he got into the roof the ropes got twisted. After a while
playing with the ropes it was easier for him to lower and for me to clean
it. It took a while to get everything straighted out. After the rope snafu
Jamie, Michelle's partner, and I hooked up to do the next pitch. Jamie
zipped through the next pitch in a couple of minutes. I followed to the
anchors where we anchored the ropes and lowered down to the ledge for
the night.
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Robert belaying if
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front of half dome
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We started out jugging the lines the next day but didn't
feel like we had it in us. We decided to head down. I set the ropes up
for a rap and I lowered back down to the bivy ledge. We did 3 more rap's
to get to the ground. It was a great first trip for a big wall even though
we turned around. I will be back to finish the route.
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Sunset on half dome from
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our bivy ledge
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Hiking out with the
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haul bag
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