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Liberty Bell, 9/23/2001, Written by Michelle
Arrived at the trailhead parking lot Saturday, 11:30 p.m. Slept under
the stars with a brilliant display of shooting stars. Woke up a little
damp from the dew and noticed that there were several parties getting
ready to hit the trail. Overheard that at least two pairs were planning
to climb the Becky route. Hhmm.
Decided to enjoy some coffee and oatmeal and let them have a good head
start on the approach so there will be less waiting at the base. Get the
rack, ropes, and snacks in order for the day. Take off about an hour behind
the others. Hike up the trail looking for the correct turnoff so we don't
end up cutting our own way by mistake. Get the right trail and see the
other parties are just starting up the gully. Disappointment that our
plan to avoid waiting didn't pan out. Waited at the base of the gully
in a protected spot as each party moved up to the notch between Liberty
Bell and Concord Tower.
Got to the base of the climb and were behind 3 pairs of climbers. Put
on all our clothes to stay warm and ate some snacks. It was pretty cold
in the shade. Waited a little over an hour and then it was our turn. I
get to lead all of the pitches because Chris has already led the climb
on two other occasions. Wow!
The first pitch went great. A couple of spots where I couldn't figure
out which cam would work in the crack. Need to get more efficient at selecting
the right size gear. It all looks bigger than it is
Stuck to passive
pro as much as possible. Got to a good rest spot and heard a guy across
on Concord yell, "FALLING!" Turned just in time to see this
guy peel off the rock and fall about 20 feet. He got his leg behind the
rope and was flipped upside down. My heart was racing. I'm thinking, "thank
God it wasn't me" and "Oh shit! Can I remember my rescue skills
from the class I took in June!" Turns out the guy is okay so I focus
in on what is in front of me. Get to the tree and set the anchor.
Whew! It got really warm now that the sun is out. Take off a couple of
layers. Belay Chris up the pitch. Eat some more snacks. Move over to the
base of the chimney to start the second pitch. Clip the piton. Get wedged
into the chimney, just feels better in there, but I realize there's no
going up if I don't get out of it. Get foot then hand out, then figure
out how to get my head out from under the block. Made it!
Glad to have my new number 4 friend, even if it is hard for me to manipulate
it with one hand
Get up to the top of the chimney and over the scramble
to the second belay. Set another anchor and belay Chris up.
Discuss the best route up the slabs and set off for the 3rd pitch. Go
up to the right. Had to think a bit here, but nothing too sketchy. Hope
Chris got a picture of that great move I just did. Look down, don't think
he got it. Oh well. See a piton and decide to clip it just in case I have
trouble moving across this block. Get over it no problem. Kind of exhilarating
to feel the exposure. Go up and start the slab traverse.
Shit. I shouldn't have clipped that piton! Too much rope drag. Get across
the slab and around the corner. Set up an anchor because I can't pull
the rope any more. Belay Chris up. Eat some more snacks. Wind through
the trees and over rocks for 50 feet to the slab boulder problem before
the last scramble. Belay Chris up. He was right. We could have un-roped
before that. Oh well. He climbs up the boulder and hip belays me up. We
un-rope and scramble to the summit.
What a great view! It feels wonderful to have led this aesthetic climb.
Eat a great lunch. Relax in the sun. Down climb the 4th class scramble
and rap down to our packs. Get the rope stuck on a rock while pulling
it down, then remember that Matt suggested 2 raps rather than one 50m.
Now I know why
Thankfully the party behind us freed the rope and
we're off down the gully and back to the car.
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